Finally, A Working NES! 257
vandel405 writes "We've seen the NES PC Conversion, and we've all lusted over the top-loading NES. But, top-loading NES's aren't something you're going to pick up at a garage sale. How can you resurrect your 8 bit console hero? Easy, with this news guide from ArsTechnica! Now you can make your 8Bit NES as reliable as your linux kernel. No more Blow and Pray!"
heh (Score:5, Funny)
just like the girls at church
Re:heh (Score:5, Funny)
oooh bad joke
i take it (Score:1, Funny)
Blow and Pray With Static Electricity (Score:5, Informative)
No more Blow and Pray!
Hey, if he's doing it with absolutely no regard whatsoever for static protection, there's gonna be plenty of blow and pray... and I don't see a single wrist strap in the photos.
*PLEASE* use static protection on anything you're repairing or modding. Why? By the time you see a static electric spark, it's on the order of 3,000V per millimeter. Sure, there's very little current behind it, but it's still more than any one of the millions of MOSFET transistors in a microprocessor or memory chip can handle. And it only takes about 25V to exceed the dielectric strength of the gate-junction layer in a typical MOSFET.
Static damage is seldom obvious. Usually, a damaged system will still boot and appear to work. But one bad transistor out of the millions in a memory chip or CPU can make it intermittent. What if one bit in a RAM chip sometimes spat back a 1, no matter what had been saved there? The computer would probably work just fine... except for the occasional "inexplicable" crash when the CPU tried to execute an instruction read from that RAM location.
A wriststrap and antistatic pad are *so* cheap and save *so many* problems.
Re:Blow and Pray With Static Electricity (Score:2)
Re:Blow and Pray With Static Electricity (Score:2)
Are they cheaper (easier, more convienente) than just getting a new NES in the super-off chance that you do fry something?
Absolutely! If you've ever taken the top off your computer to change a card or add memory, you should damned well be using a static strap, so I'd expect that most Slashdotters would have one anyway.
Actually, the other thing I'd do in one of those NES machines is replace all the electrolytic capacitors. Those things used very cheap components, and electrolytic capacitors have a tendency to fail open or fail leaky after a few years.
Re:Blow and Pray With Static Electricity (Score:2)
Any particular reason that touching the power supply case or any metal part of the case isn't good enough? It's grounded.
Sure... Well, actually, with standby power and stuff coming out of modern ATX supplies, I'd actually unplug the whole thing before changing a motherboard, adding RAM, etc. Theoretically, all those things *should* be off when the system is, but you don't know what corners were cut on a given motherboard, and let's remember that this is equipment sold primarily to people who don't know any better, at 5% profit margins.
"Can I save $0.02 by omitting that diode? Standby power won't get to the RAM if I put it in, hmm... we're expecting to make 500,000 of this model of motherboard..."
Pull the plug. The monitor itself should still be grounded, and if your monitor is still plugged into the video card, you still have a good ground path to the chassis and the power supply case. It *should* be good.
Seeing as I don't regularly travel from one end of the room to another when doing upgrades, I touch the case, operate, and close up. I'm well aware of how static damage isn't always readily noticable yet I've not had a bad card, cpu, mobo, DIMM, nada... for over 5 years.Yeah, by holding onto the power supply case, you're still going to control static potential. But even if you pick up a DIMM from beside the computer, the DIMM isn't at ground potential, and therefore a static charge will be transferred when you pick it up. That's why you need to rest all electronic components - DIMMs, video cards, hard disk drives, etc. on the *grounded* static mat.
As you move around - even back and forth in a chair - you'll probably build up a charge of at least a few hundred volts. *You* won't detect the charge when it discharges - the current is too low to feel, and the voltage difference is insufficient to ionize the air and make a spark. However, consider that (even "old" and "low-tech") CMOS electronics are capable of making a watch run for 5 years on the same tiny battery... which means that they like to deal in a hell of a lot less energy than is available with even an imperceptible static discharge.
If you *have* to work without a static strap, unplug the system power, but leave the monitor plugged in, touch static baggies to the chassis of the machine, place parts only on grounded surfaces in the machine while you're handling them, and do it all without letting go of the chassis of the machine. I've done it in the field because I had no other choice, but it's really a lot easier having two hands free. Spend the $10 and get a static strap.
Lemme tell you... try replacing the receiver stage of a radar system, at the top of a ship's mast, while trying to keep one hand on the system ground. (Damned ship was painted so many times that there were no bare grounded surfaces to keep my hand on while I was working!) I forgot my static strap that day... but it's forgivable, the night before I'd unwrapped a pristine new 100 megabyte hard disk drive for one of my home machines.
Really? (Score:2)
You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:4, Informative)
Comment removed (Score:5, Informative)
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:2, Informative)
I had an NES I kept in a cool cabnet that had low moisture and was kept clean of dust. For years the only games I ever needed to "blow and pray" on was two that I had bought at garage sales.
After numerous years it finally started having slight problems, after cleaning the connectors on the games and in the NES (did not even need to open the case) with a Cotton Tipped Cleaning Applicator (hehe.. okay so it was basically a one sided q-tip with a much longer staff) and rubbing alcohol it was back working like a champ.
If people would learn to take care of their electronics and cleam them when necessary they would find the common problems like "blow and pray" for NES games and DRE's on PS2 would disapear.
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:3, Funny)
aint it the truth? I've been needing the change a NIC and add RAM, but the machine just keeps right on running! and i hate to shut down the processes-which-may-be-in-use unless i really actually need to. i should probably just pretend i'm a real service provider and have a Scheduled Outage sometime. that could be fFun
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:2)
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:2)
Game Genie is very bad at loosening the connectors. Luckily, that doesn't seem to be too much of a problem right now. Occasionally I get a blinking screen, but not as much as before.
Re: (Score:2, Funny)
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:2)
Re:Dreamcast laser units (Score:2)
Check the Dreamcast Repair forum [ezboard.com] or buy a new GD-ROM drive, or just a new DC (which were $29.99 at EB last I saw)
Re:You could always buy replacement parts... (Score:3, Informative)
The damn thing worked more perfectly than I had ever seen an NES work! (Note, I did not have one "back in the day", and gave up on consoles from after the 2600 died until I started collecting classic games around 1993 or so.) Because the unit had been killed while the socket was still in good shape, it didn't have the typical "flashing" problems of most of the NES units of the day.
Why did Nintendo come up with this stupid "toaster" design? Because common wisdom back in 1986 was that home video games were dead, so they wanted something that didn't look like a video game console. All the other consoles in the past, and most of the cartridge-based ones since then have had the cartridge sticking out. They made it an ugly gray color to break from the blacks and browns and woodgrains of the 1979-1984 era. They made it a box to break from all the sloped and rounded designs. All the stuff that made a console look good was thrown out the door, and they were left with an ugly gray box. At least they introduced the automatic TV switch.
The moral of the story is that you can buy a new slot connector (after all, they're swappable) and have a perfectly running NES.
Not that I care. I have a top-load, but even better, I have a Tri-Star, so I can play NES and SNES games on the same unit.
Heh (Score:5, Informative)
I'd be there are some on ebay, but the problem would be finding 'em. I don't feel like searching through a few hundred listings though.
I did find this 72-pin [ebay.com] connector for replacing the cartage edge.
The NES cleaning kit also helps a lot.
Re:Heh (Score:5, Informative)
Actually I did love that, basically they were making £9.99 a pop out of their own inability to design a console, my Sega Master System 2 hasn't had so much as a blow and it's soldiering on 10 years in its life.
Actually I do wonder about this. In general CARTS were bullet proof things. How easy is it going to be to find less trivially download sized old PSX games in 10 years, is there any project to dump these now while the CDs nearly work?
Re:Heh (Score:2)
I'm not too worried yet. Technology seems to be outpacing obscurity at this point. Compress the redbook to MP3 and you can burn a few dozen PSX games to DVD.
-C
Re:Heh (Score:2)
It's the wierd format games like Dreamcast (using "GD-ROM", but can boot homebrews without modification, so can have ripper programs uploaded to it) and GameCube (supposedly the disc spins backwards, and nobody has yet gotten it to boot a homebrew disc) that will be the problem.
Top Loading NES. (Score:2)
great... (Score:1)
No thanks... (Score:4, Funny)
-dk
Re:No thanks... (Score:1)
Re:No thanks... (Score:4, Insightful)
Re:No thanks... (Score:2)
If you already own the game you are downloading, then I can agree with you, so don't bother reading further. However, if you don't...
Maybe you don't feel bad, but you should. Just because the games are old doesn't give you any more rights to the game than if you download whatever game came out yesterday. People always treat old games as abondonware. They have been saying for years that original NES games should be fair game for downloading since they aren't sold anymore. Well guess what...now Nintendo has a market for the original NES games. Many are part of the Animal Crossing game, and many are available for purchase as cards for the E-Reader for the GBA. Nintendo has every right to these games, and suddenly all the people tyring to justify downloading these games has had their only real justification shot down.
Re:No thanks... (Score:2)
You are right, Nintendo does still get value from its old ROMs...they love including them as pack-ins to "modern versions" of games to, from DK64 w/ Arcade DK, Excitebike 64 w/ Excitebike, and Metroid in a combo of Metroid Prime and Fusion.
Though I don't know if the third party games will get similar treatment...but I guess the point is you don't know.
(Of course emulators are probably more fun than this, adding in state save as well as the 'one stop shopping' approach.)
So people shouldn't feel totally free to ROM it up, though if they support efforts where the license holder is making money off the ROMs (like the recent Activision stuff for PS2, and Nintendo's games) maybe they don't have to feel all bad.
Re:No thanks... (Score:2)
The Games (Score:5, Interesting)
Is it just me.... (Score:1)
Drill the screws out... (Score:5, Funny)
Will this void the warranty?
--sex [slashdot.org]
Re:Drill the screws out... (Score:1, Insightful)
[alexchiu.com]
Help me become Immortal!!!
Re:Drill the screws out... (Score:2)
Anyone remember the commercial for the power pad in the US? They were in that polygonal dome... Wait... That was the glove-thingy that you needed to enjoy Mike Tyson's punch-out as it was meant to be enjoyed? Does anyone remember the commercial for the Power Pad? Does anyone remember the Power Pad?
Re:Drill the screws out... (Score:2)
Re:Drill the screws out... (Score:2)
And in Japan they have all the way up to Mario 9.
NES? (Score:1)
Okay I admit I have no NES!!! And it's bothering me every day *sniff*
River City Ransom!! (Score:1)
Re:River City Ransom!! (Score:2)
Try just cleaning it first (Score:5, Insightful)
Now put the whole thing back together and forget about solder. Usually the insides just need to be cleaned, as the copper oxidizes slowly over time.
I turned an almost useless Nintendo into one that worked perfectly in under an hour at no cost.
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:2)
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:2, Interesting)
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:5, Funny)
Where did you get the free alcohol, cause I'd like some
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:1)
Re:Use WD-40 ! (Seriously) (Score:3, Informative)
This is not B.S., It works. This is commonly done by antique radio restorers to fix faulty switches and controls. It was also a trick used in the days of "slot cars". A similar thing is done by using di-electric grease on light bulb sockets and spark plug contacts.
Radio-shack TV tuner cleaner (which leaves behind a lubricant) is another thing you can use if you want to get fancy. Craig Labs "DE-OXIT" (available on the web) is what the pro's use.
WD-40 attracts dust so you can use the fancier stuff if you believe your gaming system is collectible.
This is from someone who does a lot of repair of high-end test instrumentation...
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:2)
But of corse, the best is to buy a new Nintendo-style edge connector, as someone noted above.
Re:Try just cleaning it first (Score:2)
There's an easier way (Score:5, Informative)
How To Repair Your NES [classicgaming.com]
Re:There's an easier way (Score:2)
Thanks!
No more Blow and Pray! (Score:5, Informative)
To get cartridge playing the first time you insert them withut blowing is to open the NES and bend all the connectors out a bit.
Those things are a bit weak and tend to bend into the piece of plastic they're attached to, that's why after years of intensive use your NES doen't play games as well as it used to. Not all pins are conneced propperly.
What I used to do (Score:2, Informative)
At first I thought this was just working 'cause it was cleaning the thing, but I found that I had to do it over and over to the same cartridge every time I wanted it to work. So I figured maybe it helped make the connections. It's been a while since I did any chem, tho... does anybody know if rubbing alcohol would help conduct?
Re:What I used to do (Score:2, Interesting)
I have a top-loader! Nana-nana-boo-boo! (Score:2, Funny)
(Of course, I never use the thing. Emulators and all. Wonder how much I could sell it for on e-bay...)
Tinning the leads (Score:5, Informative)
I took my motherboard out (of the nes), wrapped very fine grit sandpaper around a half popsicle stick and rubbed those connectors down. Blow it out good (canned air works well.)
Then i dipped the edge connector slot in some tinning solution so it wouldnt corrode again. Wash with some distilled water, let dry, put it back together and it has lasted untill so far. No problems with games booting or losing saved games.
Or... (Score:2, Informative)
As Reliable? (Score:5, Funny)
Believe me, my NES is EXACTLY as reliable as my linux kernal.
Now if you'll excuse me I'll be attempting to get the fscking thing to survive a boot sequence...
I cannot believe you posted this "story" ... (Score:5, Informative)
Re:I cannot believe you posted this "story" ... (Score:2, Funny)
Oh.... you didn't mean that...? sorry...
Re:I cannot believe you posted this "story" ... (Score:2)
Thanks again!!
My Favorite Hobby (Score:5, Interesting)
First, find a console where, either the game just doesn't make the connection unless it's put in just right, or one of the connectors (controller, power, etc) has a similar problem.
This happens because a lot of (gradual) force is exerted on those connectors, and the designers were so stupid as to not insert something to take the punishment. In otherwords, everytime you plug in a cartridge, you are damaging the solder connection a little more.
Now that you know the problem, it should be easy to fix. Open up the system you bought for $5 at a pawn shop, and find the damaged connector. All you need to do is heat up a soldering iron, and add a little bit more solder to each one of the pins connecting to the board.
In some cases, the system was used in it's state for a good ammount of time, and the actual etchings on the board are damaged. In that case, you simply have to trace the etching te the next solder point, then connect a wire between the two.
With that info, you can now repair 90% of the consoles on the market. The other 10% were either dropped off of a building, or hooked up to the wrong AC adapter (``POP"!!!).
Re:My Favorite Hobby (Score:2)
Besides, what's so difficult about soldering one little wire?
And I'm sure that pen would be useful in some *other* situations.
Easy Solution That works well... (Score:1)
I've found that the easiest ways to get games to load good as new is to just not push it in all the way...
Push it just so that you can feel the game has "made contact" inside the system and everything should be good to go.. (this is cause most of the time the part worn out is the "root" of the connector inside)
It'll be like brand new... or atleast for another 5 years until you wear out the tips of the connector...)
Re:Easy Solution That works well... (Score:2)
You push the cartridge in and down at the same time, as soon as the cartridge clears the inside lip on the case it'll click down into position. At that point it usually worked.
Hmmm (Score:3, Funny)
Guess I shouldn't try this then... just recompiled my kernel and now it won't boot
Feh... (Score:1)
Coming soon (Score:2, Funny)
I repair my ancient 4x CD Rewriter using some meths, a couple of cotton bud, a death metal CD and a hacksaw ... and you all get to see the pictures!
Great! Now we want a PSX fix! (Score:2)
Hows about a conversion to let a PSX use a standard dirt-cheap CD drive?
Re:Great! Now we want a PSX fix! (Score:2, Interesting)
An alternative that a friend of mine once did was to replace the black cd mount (laser, motor, etc... basically the moving components of the drive) with that of a very old sony discman, which had the same shape and connections. You have to make sure you have the right one for it though.
Re:Great! Now we want a PSX fix! (Score:2)
Legacy to the durability of the NES (Score:5, Funny)
Crushed by this abuse of my baby, I picked her up and carried her inside, I had spent so many a hours with her and metroid, amungst other games.
Upon openening the case, I noticed that the PCB had cracked near the AV out panel, across only 3 traces. I found some blue wire wrap wire and began carefully soldering the 3 traces.
After slapping what was left of the case back together, I put in a cartridge and pressed the power button. Sucess as I turned up the volume to annoy my father with my victory over his rage on my defensless nintendo.
**Shudders**
Off but On Topic... (Score:5, Interesting)
Anyway, it's what? A million years old now? Give or take an hour?
My XBox died tonight. That stupid DVD-ROM thingie that everybody loves so much about modern day machines went out! It DIED! DEAD! It won't read a CD, it won't read a DVD movie, it won't read a single damned thing!
After doing a web-search I found that this is common on the XBox, and apparently there is a high demand for used DVD mechanisms taken out of broken XBoxes.
So I called Microsoft and much to my shock they were aware of this issue, considered my XBox still under warrenty, and are going to repair the unit.
Now, I would like to point out that this XBox is hardly used because there really just aren't that many great games for it. If I had to guess I'd say the machine has maybe between 60 to 80 hours of use.
Now, that old Nintendo probably has somewhere near thousands of hours of use. LITERALLY Thousands. We figured out long ago that the old "blow on the terminals" trick isn't even necessary. If the game give a flashing red screen or solid black screen we simply turn the machine off, eject, reinsert, power back on (sans blowing) and it is normally fine.
Do you know how many times I ejected that DVD and reinserted it into that XBOX? At least a half dozen. Trying to "Clean it" to make sure the disc wasn't defective probably created more scratches than existed previously and it wasn't until after I tried other games that I realized it was the XBox, and not the discs.
I guess the point I'm trying to make is that while I actually remember cases of Nintendos breaking down they were the few sad stories, and not an epidemic.
So while people might complain that those 15 year old game machines are a pain in the ass to get running, just remember, they don't build them like they used to. And they don't make the games nearly as fun, either.
Re:Off but On Topic... (Score:2, Interesting)
This is largely because kids who mod their xboxes believe a bunch of mumbo jumbo about different makes of DVDS (xbox uses models from phillips, samsung and thomson) play CD-R/DVD-R better than others. The scuttlebut is Samsung is the best, then Phillips, then Thomson. I've seen no difference personally.
If you're pretty sure your xbox works and its just the drive, sell it on eBay. You should get a few bucks. Someone like me would buy it, mod it, replace the XDVD with a regular PC DVD and go off running copied^H^H^H^H linux on it. You could do this yourself (mod xbox, replace old DVD with PC DVD), but it wont play original xbox games anymore.
Anyhow, on topic. I'm not convinced that Xbox or PS2 fail any more than the old NES's did. If your NES died back in the day you didn't have the ability to go online and see how many others did. Global community and all that. In NES days you knew only about the other NES's in your community. But you can hear ever Xbox story worldwide.
Frankly 99.9% of the 'broken xbox' stories involve a 13 year old, no common sense, and traces lifted off the motherboard while installing a modchip.
Re:Off but On Topic... (Score:2)
Re:Off but On Topic... (Score:2)
Replacing cartridge battery (Score:2, Informative)
Top Loading??? (Score:2)
Are people trying to get ahold of them??? Are they rare?
Sometimes I just dont get why old stuff is popular.
Derek
Re:Top Loading??? (Score:3, Interesting)
I remember seeing them in KB toys in STACKS....oh well
The main appeal is there's no spring load action and its more reliable
Lose your composite too. (Score:2)
However, when you consider that a NES GameGenie will also fix these troubles for far less $$, it really doesn't matter
Here is what you need to fix your NES (Score:2)
Actually... (Score:2)
There really slick, however they've got their own little quirks.
I've since sold one of them, but they both needed to have a little wedge of paper crammed behind the cartridge, otherwise you'd get the GGSOD, "Grey Gibberish Screen Of Death"
BTW, mines not for sale...
Blowing & Praying (Score:4, Informative)
Of better note, however, was the tech who serviced my console, and brought up an interesting point I haven't seen posted yet. The very "fix" we used to use (blowing...air, that is) as youts is the major cause of corrosion. Yes, I know copper oxidizes on its own, but when introduced to a moist environment, the process is accelerated.
"Moist environment? But this is my Nintendo?" you may be asking yourself. Consider this: besides CO2, we also exhale H2O. Condensation of that water vapor on the cartridge contacts is the main culprit. "But the velocity of a blow on the cartridge would negate any condensation," I can hear some saying. Nay, if your warm breath, no matter how fast, comes in contact with a colder object, condensation will form.
But we're all slashdotters. We all knew this already, correct?
Re:Blowing & Praying (Score:2)
My aunt ran one of those ANRS shops--fixed Nintendos and video cameras down in Texas. We got Star Fox for the SNES a week before it was released to the general public! I remember a story she told me about a guy who took a *HAMMER* to his NES and a Genesis cart, trying to get them to go together... she had to send that one along to the corporate repair shop, where they declined to fix it and just sent him a replacement unit instead.
Jouster
question. (Score:5, Funny)
The only explanation I can think of is those words automagically alter the probability of acception and posting of ones` submission to slashdot, in much the same way the words FREE and ENLARGEMENT alter the probability of e-mail ending up at
But procmail does not get paid to do that.
???
Re:question. (Score:2)
The only explanation I can think of is those words automagically alter the probability of acception and posting of ones` submission to slashdot, in much the same way the words FREE and ENLARGEMENT alter the probability of e-mail ending up at /dev/null.
It's natural that they should go together. When you said FREE and ENLARGEMENT, I automatically thought of downloading and compiling the latest Linux kernel.
It's the old jokes, really... (Score:2)
"Imagine a Beowold Cluster of these in Soviet Russia!!" Don't forget to tip the waitress on the way out
Why would I want a "new type" NES? (Score:2)
How can I say that? It's simple, you need to go get a NES GameGenie. If you're unfamiliar with it, the added 3.5 inches/8.75 cm makes it so you can't push the cartridge down. The benefit of this is that you get a nice, solid connection every time you push it into the unit. My NES became practically useless to use without the GameGenie in 1992, but with the GameGenie I've never had a problem.
So, save yourself either time (the time to fix in this article), the money (a top loading NES is not worth 150$ CDN), and the composite out (because top loading NES is RF only!), and just get a GameGenie.
Am I alone? (Score:2)
Yes, mine still works great, granted my mother was a clean-freak, so take it w/ a grain of salt
controllers (never had an NES) (Score:2)
Animal Crossing - Play old NES games on Gamecube! (Score:2)
My NES is working fine... (Score:2, Insightful)
Some suggestions to get your unit working:
1. USE AN ERASER. YOU MUST, -MUST- DO THIS.
Smirk if you will, but erasers have been the #1 most effective way I've found for getting corrosion off conductive surfaces. When you open the NES to clean the edge connector, use these before you use any chemicals.
Even better, you can use erasers to clean up your cart pins just by running the side of a pencil eraser along your cart's pins. You can use the pencil to reach down in there, so you don't even have to remove the plastic case.
2. Still having games with flashing green screens at boot? Use the friction between the pin connector and the cartridge to your advantage. Since this is a metal-on-metal connection, you can use the two connectors to cut through the grime.
Insert the cartridge so that it's not quite seated in the back and push it down so it locks in and the pins bite down on it. Now, if you push hard, you can still move the cartridge forward just a little. Without removing it, carefully push it forward. It should move all of a few millimeters, but that much friction between the two will cut through corrosion on both the cart and the pin connectors.
You should be able to make games work more often on the first try with this trick, although admittedly it may not be good for the long-term life of the connectors.
Fuck the NES... (Score:2)
Re:Atari games? (Score:2)
Whenever the games copyrights expire i'd imagine.
Re:Atari games? (Score:1)
Re:Atari games? (Score:2)
Re:Atari games? (Score:2)
One of my unfinished projects is to go over some SNES emulators for DC and see if they're optimizable. I wouldn't be suprised if it's poor (should probably say average) coding that's causing these games to run so choppily. For now though a pc and a Sidewinder seems to be the way to go.
Re:Atari games? (Score:2)
Re:Load up my ass (Score:2)
And yes I did wonder precisely what I was shoving the power lead into.
Re:Holy fuck, I can sumarize the article in 4 word (Score:3, Insightful)
No ... (Score:1)