Power Consumption of a Typical PC While Gaming 211
cliffski writes "How much does your PC really draw in terms of power when idle, when in sleep, and when playing a demanding game? I don't trust everything the manufacturers of hardware say, so I thought I'd get myself a watt measuring device and run a few tests on some of the gear I leave on all the time, and the gear I go to the trouble of turning off. The Linksys router drew 8 watts, the monitor drew a fairly noticeable 30-31, but what surprised me was how little power the base unit drew, even when playing Company of Heroes. Also, the variance of power draw for Vista seemed minimal, regardless of what you got the machine to do."
What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Insightful)
Hey, when it's 100 deg F outside, I notice the difference.
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If you can use your Macbook Pro on your lap you've got tougher *legs* than I do, let alone anything you keep between them.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Interesting)
A few weeks after that [this is in January mind you] I began waking up in the mornings with an especially acute itchy rash in my groin area, which I had never suffered from before. After a couple of weeks of being unable to cure myself of it, and the rash becoming angry and painful, I finally went to the doctor and was diagnosed with Tinea Cruris [wikipedia.org]. The doctor asked me if I had begun using a sauna or spa regularly, to which I replied negatively...
He then asked me if I had recently purchased a laptop computer. And that's when the lightbulb went on.
After four weeks of twice daily showers, blow drying the affected area, and applying Lotrimin, the rash went away. And I no longer rest my laptop on my lap when in use.
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Unless you checked to make sure the batteries were not Sony, you shouldn't be resting a laptop on your lap anyway.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Funny)
You might be a geek, if your laptop gave you the itch.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Funny)
you're lucky it was just crotch rot. Dell laptops have the dubious distinction of being the first such devices to cause penis burns.
http://www.theregister.co.uk/2002/11/22/man_burns_penis_with_laptop/ [theregister.co.uk]
I _always_ use a lap "desk" (a flat board on top, some padding on the bottom) when I use my macbook pro, to prevent just such a thing. As you know, it gets pretty warm.
Bad Latitude (Score:3, Funny)
Talk about your latitude adjustment.
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Dirty mind if I told you I balanced it on only 1 "table-leg"?
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Actually, Dell uses the term "laptop" on official communication, including the front page of their web site.
The whole "don't call it a laptop" scare is pure nonsense dreamt up by some ignorant middle-manager or escalation expert. I didn't work there long, just long enough to realize I didn't want to be that escalation expert, so I turned down the promotion and left shortly thereafter. Like any call center, the rules are mostly made-up on-the-fly, and the people making the rules are usually the least techn
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Yeah, that's a bit too risqué for Dell... management is very "holier than thou", which I guess is a requirement when your business model revolves around hiring freshly landed unskilled immigrants while juggling the role of top PC vendor.
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That's Apple's marketing scheme, not Dell's.
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So does your computer, powersupplies get less efficeint the warmer the room is. So while your useing only 200 watts, at 70 degrees, at 85 degrees, it's probably past 250.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Informative)
Resistance does increase with temperature and a thermally controlled fan will spin faster and draw more current. But enough for a 25% rise in consumption from a 15 degree (in unspecified units, I guess you mean Fahrenheit) temperature rise? That's seems like a hell of a lot for a fairly modest rise in temperature.
For an 80% efficient power supply, an increase of 25% overall consumption is more than double the power loss. The reality is very complex, but we can pick out a few relevant numbers to get a feel for the magnitudes involved. Empirical testing would be easier than an analysis, but here's some food for thought:
For copper, the resistance rises by about 0.4% per degree Celsius rise. Your roughly 7 Celsius rise would increase it by a whopping 2.8%. You'll have melted the insulation well before even a 50% rise in the resistance of your copper wire.
If you look inside a power supply, you'll see a big fat heatsink. Attached to that are rectifiers and switches - diodes and FETs. That's where a big proportion of your power supply's inefficiency comes from. Looking at the first power FET datasheet I have to hand (for a Fairchild HUF75337P3), the on resistance increases by something like 1% per degree Celsius rise. For diodes because the forward voltage drop actually decreases with increasing junction temperature - they get more efficient. For an International Rectifier 12CWQ03FN it looks to be about 0.2% lower per degree Celsius rise.
The YS-Tech 80mm fans in this box next to me consume 0.84W at full speed. That's a slow fan though, I wouldn't be surprised if more typical ones used 2-3W at full speed.
Hardly a complete analysis, but just can't see where you're getting this additional 50W from. I think you're out by an order of magnitude.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Informative)
Any decent electronics project book will verify that any copper or aluminum wire will gain resistance with increasing temperature.
If you want a quick link, though, how about this article at Dan's Data about power supplies [dansdata.com] which actually gives some basic theory? It's a little suspect in that it's a review of a particular brand of power supply, and Dan's Data isn't as widely known as Tom's Hardware or Anandtech. What do you want from the very first Google result for the search "warmer power supplies draw more current", though? It also happens that he's right (about the issue, anyway -- I've never reviewed or purchased Topower power supplies).
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Any decent electronics project book will verify that any copper or aluminum wire will gain resistance with increasing temperature.
While what you say is true, there is no reason to believe that resistance losses are a significant portion of the total losses in our power supplies or that it that those losses increase by a significant percentage over the temperature range seen. Without proper analysis, facts can be used to jump to the wrong conclusions. (compare with dangers/effects of high power microwaves a
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Dan's Data was around back when Tom's Hardware was just a bunch of teenagers chipping at the Berlin wall with claw hammers.
He's got an odd personality at times, and is anything but objective, but the man tends to know his facts.
And yes, a power supply's efficiency and load capacity are adversely affected by temperature. That's partly why the better ones weigh a ton : big bad-ass heatsinks.
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Any first level electronics book will do.
Let's see what the DOE ahs to say, shall we?
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/phy99/phy99x42.htm [anl.gov]
IT also discusses current; which is what we are really talking about here.
No sources needed (Score:2)
Jut go to any store that sells computer power supplies. Look at the box. Do you see 80 certified anywhere on that (you should see it on most boxes.)
That means the power supply converts at least 80% of the power drawn from the outlet into usable energy for the computer. So, if you have a 200 watt power supply, making 200 the 80%, you would be drawing around 250 watts of power.
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So, if you have a 200 watt power supply, making 200 the 80%, you would be drawing around 250 watts of power.
A very common fallacy is that a PSU always draws as many watts as it's rated for; in other words, a 500-watt PSU constantly draws 500 watts or more. This is incorrect; your PSU only supplies (and draws) as many watts as your computer currently needs.
"80-plus certified" means the PSU was tested to be 80% efficient at 25%, 50%, and 100% load. Assuming you have a fairly low-end system, your 200-watt PSU may never supply more than 100 watts, and therefore (being 80% efficient) never draw more than 125 watts
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As someone who's spent plenty of time looking at power consumption/efficiency numbers (silentpcreview.com is a great site, btw), I can say that very few PSUs bother to be noticeably *more* than 80% efficient. A small fraction of 80-plus units peak at 85% efficiency, but only under a fairly heavy load. You can count on your fingers the number of ATX PSUs that achieve 85% over their full range.
Of course, the issue is rhetorical. The parent poster referred to a theoretical 200 watt, 80% efficient PSU using
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Umm, mine has 8 12v rails, two for CPU and 6 for SATA/IDE drives. It's a 700w PSU.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:4, Interesting)
Back in the day, I had my server (an AMD Athlon64 2800+), my workstation (2x AMD Athlon MP 2400+), my wifes computer (P-IV 2.6GHz HT) and a huge Colour Laser printer (Ricoh Aficio CL2000) in a 10 square metre office. All the machines were pretty much on all the time.
We never ever needed to turn on the heating in that room. Even when it was -15C outside. In the summer you couldn't stay there for more than half an hour if you dared to close the door. The machines stayed stable though....
We now cut down seriously on the amount of machines we have in our office. (Let's say that getting rid of the MP was already an immense change...)
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Interesting)
I used to work for an ISP which was contacted by the natural gas utility company about canceling service. The gas company decided it wasn't doing us as the customer nor them as the seller any good to keep billing us just for the pipe, as we used about 2 units of gas in the five years at our location. With four offices, a lobby, the call center, and the NOC, we were self-sustaining for heat. Cooling, on the other hand, cost us dearly.
Re:What about my A/C kicking into overdrive? (Score:5, Insightful)
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I moved my office downstairs. Simply put, the lower floor is always cooler in summer and the heat difference in winter isn't justification to have a system upstairs.
As such, the upstairs is left at 82F during the day while not in use, goes down to 78 starting that nearly an hour before expected time to turn in.
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Laser printers are power hogs by the very way they work. They're space heaters! If you have a laser printer running, it most likely consumes more power than all your other hardware combined, and certainly puts out more heat.
The way a laser printer works is that the laser beam puts an electrostatic charge wherever it lands - which wouold be where you want the paper to be black.
The charge on the paper attracts the toner, which is black plastic ground into fine powder. A heater in the unit, at 1800 degrees f,
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"the toner, which is black plastic ground into fine powder."
you forgot the iron and carbon black. Also, it's not really a plastic, it's more like a wax. You can use a block of it at room temperature just like a crayon.
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To me, "back in the day" implies more than 3 years ago.
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My tower doesn't produce much heat, but when I'm gaming with my 360, I swear its like having a space heater on, if you've never felt the air coming out of the exhaust fans, its something like putting your hand at the mouth of a hair dryer.
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I miss my old 360 in the winter :P
The Falcon Elite I have now is a huge improvement in cooling, but no longer a space heater.
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True, but your computer's a pretty expensive heat source, compared to gas or an electric heat pump.
If you have resistive central heat in your house, it would be a wash. And, of course, if you keep it on the floor under your desk it is in a good position for space heating.
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Yep, same here. My upstair room can go up over 85 degrees(F) with a fan and central unit AC running! I have a bunch of electronics in my tiny room. I try to unplug stuff I don't use like TVs and printer. I also try to use AMD Cool'n'Quiet [amd.com] on my AMD systems. I also turn off machines that I don't use, but Linux/Debian box and wired network devices stay 24/7. Same for my old VCR (yes, still use one for recordings). :(
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Typical air conditioning can remove heat from your house with a 30-45% penalty; eg running a 100W appliance might cost another 35W in air conditioning. Incidentally, at least for air conditioning planning, I've seen a human listed as producing about 600 BTUs per hour, or 175 Watts. So your room might be warming up as much from you using the computer as it is from the computer itself.
Also, some people seem surprised that their computer has a 450W power supply even though it is only drawing 150 Watts. This
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If you buy a computer from Apple or Dell, the power supply needs to have enough capacity to handle not only what you're getting, plus power for extra
I don't know about Apple, but I can tell you that Dell, IBM, HP and probably most other big-name vendors tend to use the smallest possible power supply that can keep the machine running, with just enough headroom to outlast the warranty (power supplies get weaker with age). The same is often true of local shops.
I've got an IBM P3 with a 100w power supply, from a decade ago when 250w was standard, and 300w was l33t. I've worked on countless P4 Dells where the power supply was either 150w or 220w. Just a
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Assuming adiabatic conditions (Not typical, but can occur) and walls with a specific heat of zero (obviously bogus) in a 12 x 12 x 8 foot closed room, a system drawing 200 Watts will raise the temperature of the air by over 30 degrees F per hour (further assuming I didn't totally botch the math).
Of course, even if you were adiabatic to begin with, raising the temperature is going to undo that (thankfully), meaning your computer just keeps things a few degrees warmer than if it we
I love kill-a-watt (Score:5, Interesting)
My wife is huge into low-energy tools, and she got us a kill-a-watt to play with.
In my server racks, I've got the PDU equivalent of this [apc.com] from APC. They've helped me many times in load balancing the power draw across our circuits
Re:I love kill-a-watt (Score:4, Funny)
My wife is huge into low-energy tools, and she got us a kill-a-watt to play with.
Hey pervert, keep your smutty bedroom toys to yourself! :P
Re:I love kill-a-watt (Score:5, Funny)
Obviously. She married you.
Re:I love kill-a-watt (Score:4, Funny)
This is why some posts should be modded to +10.
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... wife ... huge ... tools ... play with.
... racks ... load ...
Re:I love kill-a-watt (Score:5, Funny)
>>I can hardly believe that the router mentioned was using 8 watts, what is the time period there?
8 Watts is probably about 8 Joules / Second. You know, in that ballpark.
Re:I love kill-a-watt (Score:5, Informative)
8 watts at 120 volts (simplistically speaking [wikipedia.org]) would only be about 66 milliamps.
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on top of that the ratings you see on the power blocks is normaly the dc output - the kill-a-watt meausres the power draw on the AC side before conversion - there is no doubt that router is running on less than 8watts as you lose in the conversion and heat. and most bricks arn't what you would call effecient devices they are cheap.
but as the power total isn't much the effeciency isn't that big of a deal
if you are only 50% effecient in conversion but that loss is only say 10 watts no big deal compared to a
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Time is NOT a component of the "watts" unit. A watt is current times voltage; e.g. at 100 volts one ampre, you have 100 watts. If you run it for ten hours, you have consumed one kilowatt hour.
The joule is is the SI unit of energy measuring heat, electricity and mechanical work. One joule is the work done, or energy expended, by a force of one newton moving one metre along the direction of the force. This quantity is also denoted as a newton metre with the symbol Nm. Wikipedia may be able to clear all this u
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The terminology I should have used was that time is factored out of the watts unit. So from a pedantic perspective (which I appreciate), I misspoke. But from reading the rest of my comment you should be able to tell that I got the math and the definition (which I spelled out right there) correct.
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Incidentally, you talked yourself into the exact same misunderstanding of the data as the parent by latching on to that one sentence instead of reading my entire comment. The whole point was that watt-hours and joules are *not* what he was looking for there.
Provisioned power vs. used energy (Score:2, Informative)
Time is NOT a component of the "watts" unit. [...] The joule is is the SI unit of energy measuring heat, electricity and mechanical work.
The watt is a unit of power, and power is the rate of energy transfer. A watt is one joule per second (1 J/s); there's a time component on the bottom of the fraction.
A watt is current times voltage; e.g. at 100 volts one ampre, you have 100 watts.
Right, but voltage itself is derived from power. A volt is a watt per ampere, or a joule per ampere-second, or a joule per coulomb.
but if you check your electric bill you'll see that you aren't billed for watts used, but kilowatt hours used.
I seem to remember reading that electric companies bill for both provisioning and usage: one rate for peak power (in watts) that could be used and another for energy (in kilowatt hours or megajoules) that is used
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450W at idle?!
The power rating on the power supply indicates how much it is capable of supplying. it will not draw more than is needed, plus some for the thermal losses in the power supply (a good many supplies are better than 80% efficient).
My fairly powerful system (3ghz core2 duo, 2GB ram, 500GB hard drive, 8800GTS, 700W generic brand power supply, and a 17" CRT from 7 years ago,) draws about 370W running flat out according to my UPS (a 780W/1200VA APC unit) and sits at about 200-250W at idle (for vario
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I don't understand why people use such over-rated PSUs. I guess it is just a dick-sizing thing.
My server/workstation at home consumes ~120W at idle, and 200W under full load. I bought a "small" 380W PSU a few years ago when the same machine was drawing ~250-300W under full load. After dumping the dual socket Athlon and switching to a single socket dual core, and turning on cpu frequency scaling my power bill droped $10/month.
I did the math a while back based on my CA $0.12/kwh. Every watt I use, transla
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partially efficiency of scale (in general (all other things being equal), a 700W supply running at half-load will be more efficient/last longer/provide more stable voltages than a 350W supply running balls out, not to mention room for expansion.) and partly as that rating falls quickly as the temperature rises (also related to point 1. in general, higher load % = higher temps). going from 40C to 50C internal PSU temp (not unreasonable if the ambient temp is high, like in summer without an AC or simply a r
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1)Increasingly power-hungry and inefficient video cards hooked up in SLI (negating the increasing efficiency of CPUs)
2)Crappy PSUs that can't provide their claimed wattage under real-world conditions
The dick-sizing thing probably accounts for most of it, though.
I have a Core 2 Duo at 3.3 GHz and a 8800GT on a Silverstone 300W PSU, and I've never cracked 200W, and the warning light has never come on.
Kicking and screaming (Score:4, Funny)
Just for giggles... (Score:2)
For the antique buffs out there, it's an athlon xp with and old radeon 9xxx series, half a dozen optical and hard drives, and a dozen fans. add in the cold cathodes and fancy cooling crap that I thought was neat back in school, and 325 watts doesn't seem all that bad.
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I still have an Evergreen C6 in my Overdrive socket.
Get off my lawn!
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Little information (Score:3, Interesting)
Re:Little information (Score:4, Informative)
Hi. Theres a single hard drive in there. a typical 'shipped with the box' PSU, no wireless card or anything fancy.
The PC is from mesh Computers, about a year old.
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That's dangerously bad advice. In addition to the headline power rating, PSUs are rated per rail (5V, 12V etc.). It's extremely unlikely that your computer would draw power from the various supply lines in exactly the proportions the supply can provide. Most notably, older systems drew CPU power from the 5V rail. Boards for the P4 and other more modern boards use the 12V rail for CPU power. (In both cases there's a switching regulator which coverts this to the CPU's actual supply voltage.) PSUs, at least th
Worth the cost (Score:4, Interesting)
Also, I doubt the leds on any of the devices mentioned account for nearly any of the measured current draw, 20ma at 5v is
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lol, haven't gotten around to plugging the meter yet but i count 59 LED between my computer/hub/modem plus the 3 little blacklight bulbs :) Doesn't run them all the time and most of the fan lights are off or very low. Full power looks and sounds like a 747 on takeoff but not needed for cooling.
New project is now to test out my vintage iron. Note to check max rating on kill-a-watt first before trying the mini-computer with the 5 digit BTU rating ;)
I did find that my desktop uses almost the same power 'off' a
Try a scandinavia price: 0.44$ / kilowatt (Score:2)
Where I live we pay $.08 per kilowatt hour, so running my computer 24/7 costs me (assuming 190 watts at idle) $11 a month,
In Denmark (central Copenhagen) one kilowatt hour is priced at 0.44 USD (just reduced from 0.49 this month btw). So running a unit with a consumption of 190 watts for a day costs about 2.00 USD and approx 60.2 USD a month. Between 5 and 6 times as much as you pay.
The price is higher than in Sweden (our neighbouring country) but lower than other countries in the European Union.
My DELL XPS gaming rig certainly uses more than 190 watts when playing games. I would estimate at least 500 watts including the
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n Denmark (central Copenhagen) one kilowatt hour is priced at 0.44 USD (just reduced from 0.49 this month btw)
Yeah but you Danish get the majority of your power from wind and over renewables don't you? I'd rather pay the high price for that than the situation we have here in the UK now where we just pay a high price and destroy the environemnt
Re:Worth the cost (Score:5, Interesting)
1. I frequently access it from work over SSH.
2. When I'm home, somebody in the family is using it nearly all the time (instead of TV which is constantly in use in plenty of other homes)
3. When nobody is using it, it's running BOINC on behalf of World Community Grid doing useful things like cancer/AIDS research.
4. My life experience with computers indicates that a computer running all the time will live longer than a computer switched on and off.
Maybe my opinion on PC life is bunk, but overall I don't think I'm killing off the ecosystem by keeping my PC on. I've replaced every incandescent bulb I can with compact fluorescents. I actually turn lights OFF when I leave a room. I use LCDs instead of CRTs. I recycle. I drive a small car, and keep the speed down and I've cut down my driving considerably.
There are much better targets for your ranting and raving than $11 worth of electricity.
BTW, I'm very jealous of the $0.08/KWH price. Where I live (Massachusetts, US) the cost of electricity is more like $0.20/KWH.
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Agreed.
Pretty much do the same, however I replaced 3 large Linux/Windows/BSD pcs with a MAC mini and a Macbook. Both go to sleep quite fast, and last long on UPS.
In Costa Rica there is only 1 power company : the government, so there is nothing to do there.
I also agree with not judging people over one thing they do.
It is like my colleagues telling me why I leave the office computer on (BTW it goes into sleep when I press the button, and draws very little (MAC G5)........ then they go to Mac donalds while I
I need one of those (Score:2, Informative)
I've think I've estimated the power draw at around 450w under full load (not including the monitors. 3 of them are turned off when I play games).
Luckily I don't pay my electric bill.
Re:I need one of those (Score:5, Funny)
Luckily I don't pay my electric bill.
A true slashdot stereotype.
Let me guess, late 20's and parents basement.
Multi-head multiplayer? (Score:2)
been wondering about this also (Score:2, Insightful)
been wondering about this also.
mainly due to having only one 20A outlet, and the building is old enough I don't want to risk that much.
looking to build a new system, I want to make a strong but low power-draw system (gonna use a 45nm intel chip). Looking at specs on various parts suppliers sites, I come across numbers like "total thermal dissipation", or things like the notes on Intel's ATOM board: "fully populated board with accessories uses 75W max"
Where do I find out exactly how much wattage I need?
A lo
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kinda simple
watts = amps * voltage
if you are in the US normal AC is between 110-125v
at 20 amps that outlet can provide 2,200-2,500 watts before the current load flips the breaker
unless you have alot of computers all on the same circute you don't need to worrie about the draw on the outlet
at home i have 2 computers 1 lcd monitor 1 crt monitor a laser printer and networking stuff.. constant draw is about 250 watts (at 124v that is 2 amps) when the printer fires up it draws 10 amps for a second but other than
A lot of computers all on the same circuit (Score:2)
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Laptop (Score:2)
Unless you're playing 3d games, it might be easier to get a laptop instead of building your own. Don't bother with Atom, it's too underpowered for desktop use.
Accuracy (Score:5, Interesting)
I wonder how accurate those readings are. Cheap power meters often only produce correct values for purely resistive loads. Everything uses switching power supplies nowdays (they're very efficient compared to linear power supplies), and they draw current in peculiar ways (some have power factor correction which improves things). Does anyone have a Kill-a-Watt vs Oscilloscope accuracy comparison for different kinds of loads?
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My kill-a-watt can also display the power factor. That doesn't say anything about how accurate it is, but it does say that it knows something about non-resistive loads. Incidentally, the switching supplies in the PCs I've measured have a power factor of about 67%.
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My cheap power meter displays power factor, but not very accurately. It will tell me an AC fan has a power factor of 33% (correct) and an early-model switch-mode PSU has a power factor of 100% (wrong).
After seeing the effects of several hundred inductive loads on an AC grid, I now only buy PSUs with Active Power Factor Correction. It costs less in the long run.
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Re:Accuracy (Score:4, Informative)
I don't think they are accurate at all on switch mode power supplies. I have one which is definitely wrong when measuring a PC PSU.
I think they expect to see peak current at the peaks of AC voltage, but a switch mode PSU will take small bites of current which may or may not coincide with the voltage peaks.
Vista increases the wattage (Score:4, Interesting)
Note that he uses Vista and he says his computer doesn't need more watts when playing games compared to normal usage.
Maybe this is because Vista's 3D interface already taxes the video card and forces it to draw a lot of power?
Why should Aero change anything? (Score:2)
How often a day do you suppose Aero's DX9 effects are invoked in Vista? I am betting the load on the GPU is trivial when compared to 10 seconds of the gamer-geek's first person shooter.
Power consumption and Vista's Aero interface [techreport.com] [October 2006]
"When the UI isn't doing anything,
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Video card reviews (Score:2)
Power consumption of PS3 / Wii / XBOX 360 (Score:5, Informative)
You should take a look at http://www.hardcoreware.net/reviews/review-356-1.htm [hardcoreware.net]
This is the main information:
Power Consumption in Games
PS3: 185.9 Watt average
XBox360: 176,54
PC (see link for more information): 156,6
Wii: 16.8
Useful, relevant links... for once: (Score:4, Interesting)
After you figure out your kWh usage for your respective devices, this kWh cost calculator [citytrf.net] is useful for finding out how much it costs to run it during a period of time.
I leave my computer on all the time. I highballed its power usage at 200 watts to factor in the speakers, monitor, and computer itself (the monitor is not on all the time, but the computer is nowhere near 200 watts - so I just did a rough estimate.
You would also want to find out much a kWh costs in your state [michaelbluejay.com] to plug in the correct values. I set it up for $0.11 a kWh, also a big higher estimate.
My father insisted that my computer was the reason the power bill was over $200 one month. It's nice to be able to tell him that it only costs about $15 a month to use. (:
PowerMac Quad G5 (Score:2)
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Re:Consoles (Score:5, Informative)
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The 360 and PS3 have both had 2 die shrinks since release. The newest ones should use about 60W less than the earliest. Judging from the 30W difference between the 360 and PS3 in TFA, the 360 was probably one generation newer than the PS3.
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Depending on the server it is extremely high or infinitely low ;)