Follow Slashdot stories on Twitter

 



Forgot your password?
typodupeerror
×
Nintendo Games

Nintendo Sued by European Gamers Hampered by Broken Controllers (bloomberg.com) 39

Nintendo faces a complaint from BEUC, a European consumer group, over what it calls "systematic problems" with the controllers for the company's popular Switch games console. BEUC said it filed a complaint with the European Union and national consumer protection organizations after evidence from users showed that in 88% of cases, "the game controllers broke within the first two years." A report adds: The group said some 25,000 gamers and other consumers across Europe, including France, Belgium and the Netherlands, complained about a "recurring technical problem with Nintendo Switch controllers, commonly referred to as 'Joy-Con Drift,' according to a statement on Wednesday. The problem causes a glitch where characters can move within games without any input from the user.
This discussion has been archived. No new comments can be posted.

Nintendo Sued by European Gamers Hampered by Broken Controllers

Comments Filter:
  • I wonder why no one decided to make some sort of optical sensors to detect stick movement. That could be encapsulated in a way that is immune to dust.

    • Re:Optical sensors (Score:4, Insightful)

      by Narcocide ( 102829 ) on Wednesday January 27, 2021 @01:45PM (#60997360) Homepage

      It's not about dust this time. They're just fragile. The plastic inside permanently deforms under pressure. For the first time ever, the 3rd party controllers might be a better buy this time around. Check out HORI - the company that made the original NES Advantage. They still make officially licensed Nintendo Switch controllers.

      • by Aereus ( 1042228 )

        My Go-To for 3rd party controllers for Switch and PC is the 8bitdo SN30+ —looks just like an SNES controller, but with modern triggers and grips on it. Not only works with Switch, but PC and mobile as well. It has a removable rechargeable battery similar to an Xbox controller, but you can charge it via USB-C so there normally isn't a reason to remove it, but the option is there. (Can substitute regular alkalines, for example)

        • Hmm, I was eyeing that one too. I did like the throw-back visual aesthetic. What type of range do you get on from them? My other complaint about the official Switch controllers is they have inferior range to the previous-gen Wii and Wii-U controllers.

      • I was not aware that the problem was fragility of the components, thanks for pointing that out. I suppose that it is at least fixable as the sticks assembly is modular and may be replaced easily. Another option to 2rd party controllers is to use an USB dongle from 8bitdo that allows the use of other consoles controllers, currently I'm using a PS4 DualShock.

      • by Armonk ( 5413686 )
        it is not surprising, it is not like this is the first time we hear about extremely bad build quality associated with nintendo switch ... also the quality of equipment is falling in general
    • by grumbel ( 592662 )

      The N64 used optical encoder wheels, basically the same mechanics as where used in all ball mice, just with a stick instead of a ball. The whole mechanism was however quite bulky. The old Microsoft Siderwinder flightsticks also used some form of optical tracking, though not sure on the mechanism. These days most of the higher end flight sticks use hall-effect sensors, which is also contact-less, even some game controllers use them now, e.g. WMR controller use them for the analogue trigger.

      That said, there i

      • "there is nothing wrong with the old potentiometer based analog sticks"

        False.

        I have replaced several due to unmitigated jitter caused by center wear. What a PITA.

  • by BAReFO0t ( 6240524 ) on Wednesday January 27, 2021 @01:42PM (#60997332)

    In the EU, all products are required, by law, to work for at least two years. (Obviously not food that natueally spoils, but you know which ones.)
    Before 1 year, the burden of proof is on them. After 1 year, them burden of proof is on them.
    This is a separate thing from any manufacturer guarantee. So even though some shops are actively lying about this, it applies to everything, even dollar store cables that die after the third rolling them up. Yes, you can bring them back until they. freakin. stop. selling. them. (Though of course they could just refuse to sell to you. And you could thenbring out the consumer protection big guns and sue them for deliberate fraud or something.)

    I think 2 years is way too low for products like washing machines or cars or electronics, that are expected to last decades. Especially things with no moving parts. But that's the law.

    • I think 2 years is way too low for products like washing machines or cars or electronics, that are expected to last decades.

      As a rule, if anything is going to break it will happen during the first year or two. That's the "break in" period when all the shiny new parts get put under stress. If they're going to break, that will be the time.

      Five years is too long because by then the parts are getting worn. How do you determine a failure is the result of a manufacturing defect or simple wear and tea
      • I think 2 years is way too low for products like washing machines or cars or electronics, that are expected to last decades. As a rule, if anything is going to break it will happen during the first year or two. That's the "break in" period when all the shiny new parts get put under stress. If they're going to break, that will be the time.

        If that were the case the overwhelming majority of the time, then we would not even be here discussing this issue.

        Five years is too long because by then the parts are getting worn. How do you determine a failure is the result of a manufacturing defect or simple wear and tear?

        Simple; expected wear and tear. I just bought a calculator that was quite literally designed to be (accidentally) dropped (HP 12C). It came with a 1-year warranty, but you could extend it to two years only in countries that legally supported it. This is a device that has proven itself since inception (40 years ago) that it can last a hell of a lot longer than a year, but that seems to be the (c

      • by sjames ( 1099 )

        Five years is too long because by then the parts are getting worn. How do you determine a failure is the result of a manufacturing defect or simple wear and tear?

        If it's something that is normally expected to last more than 10 years, it doesn't matter. If it wore and tore in 5 years it's either a design flaw or a manufacturing defect.

        The only exception might be a device marketed for end consumer use that gets used commercially IF that use materially increases wear and tear (so not on a digital picture frame or audio player for examples). Any marketing claims of "heavy duty" or "commercial grade" would remove that exception.

    • by Calydor ( 739835 )

      I seem to recall that when I bought a new washing machine and dryer a few years ago they actually came with a 10 year manufacturer guarantee from AEG. Perhaps this is one of those cases where the companies avoid getting regulations written down as long as they play nice?

      • by Aereus ( 1042228 )

        I'd also look at the fine print of those warranties: Generally speaking they often selectively cover only the stuff that isn't likely to break easily, but there are still a lot of routine maintenance parts that can give out long before that and cost you a maintenance call.

        • LG front load washer/dryers have the big 10 plaque on the front, big number 10, followed by small words about it covering the direct drive motor... So, all the electronic controls, dials, buttons, gaskets, seals, pumps, etc., are not covered 10 years. They'll gladly put that big shiny 10 YEAR sticker on the front, but this taken from a random model on their web site: Period of Coverage Labor : 1 Year Parts : 1 Year Extended Coverage 10 Years Motor, Lifetime on Drum
    • by tlhIngan ( 30335 )

      In the EU, all products are required, by law, to work for at least two years. (Obviously not food that natueally spoils, but you know which ones.)
      Before 1 year, the burden of proof is on them. After 1 year, them burden of proof is on them.
      This is a separate thing from any manufacturer guarantee. So even though some shops are actively lying about this, it applies to everything, even dollar store cables that die after the third rolling them up. Yes, you can bring them back until they. freakin. stop. selling.

      • Not really. A large portion is actually senseless price gouging. There's no rhyme or reason to the companies which do or don't dramatically mark up costs compared to the exchange rate. Many products are within a rounding error of each other after tax, many more can be pointlessly double the price. A large portion of complaints usually stem from those people who don't seem to understand that in the USA prices are listed pre-tax and in the EU they are with all charges included, and these charges can differ a

    • Ater 1 year, the burden of proof is on YOU!

      I had no coffee yet, when I wrote this. Stupid interational travel messing with my morning routine. (Yeah, Covid doesn't make it any better. But I got no choice.)

  • It's pretty common. I bought a joystick replacement kit on Amazon for ~$15.

    You get 'em, European consumer protection laws!

    • Are you in the US? If so, you didn't need to buy anything. Nintendo USA is fixing this issue for free. They all fixed 4 of my left joycons (one that came with my launch day switch, one bought on launch day, and 2 bought later that year). No receipts required for any of it, no credit card security, no charge for shipping. They didn't even make me sit through a bunch of "try this" crap. I just explained the problem, they took my info, and emailed me a shipping label.

      Though I will acknowledge that if you don't

  • Having "fixed" a few I can say it was just a bad design. It is made up of a circuit board with a variable resistance coating over which metal contacts slide. The sliding of the metal across the coating eventually eats it away until the resistance change is no longer linear.

    A better design was the old N64 controllers that used a slotted optical wheel which an ir beam detected the movement. A newer non-contact method would have been to use a 3D magnetic hall sensor with a tiny magnet mounted to the botto
    • Is it just the stick that you need to replace when you get drift?

      I sent one in to Nintendo for a free repair and it started drifting again the first day I got it back. I'd rather fix it myself if sending it in means an extremely temporary fix.
      • by bob4u2c ( 73467 )
        Look on Amazon for a "joycon repair kit", there are many out there. A kit should come with a set of screw drivers (the Y shaped bit will strip if you use a + tip, so at the very least you need that), a plastic tool for prying the control apart, and a few replacement sticks. Nothing is too complicated and it all comes apart pretty easily. If you then look on Youtube you should find a bunch of videos on how to open and replace the sticks. Once you get the hang of it, it should only take about 5 minutes to
  • Two years seems like a long time to me. On the Atari 2600 joysticks, either the large bottom ring of the white plastic spine would snap, or the circuit board metal contact blisters would lose their spring -- usually before then.
    • Are you kidding? Those 2600 sticks were built like tanks (unless you got a janky 3rd party one), I still have about 10 or more going strong after 40 years of abuse!
      • Nope, even the original ones were pants. I fixed many broken ones, but they'd only last so long until being returned again. Most Atari owners (as well as C64 owners) here eventually switched to these Arcade joysticks [mad-gameshop.com]. Now those were indestructable. Even a weekend of Decathlon wouldn't do them in.
    • Liar.
    • Same problem on the Atari 7800 controllers. Those triangular rounded point concave spring contacts would eventually split from metal fatigue.

      Similar contacts were in another failed electronic toy and I used those to replace the broken ones. They were cellophane taped into place at the factory.

      When those contacts were new they made a nice click, when nearing the end it was obvious as the click wasn't quite right anymore.
    • Two years seems like a long time to me. On the Atari 2600 joysticks, either the large bottom ring of the white plastic spine would snap, or the circuit board metal contact blisters would lose their spring -- usually before then.

      A shitty half-century old hardware design prone to failure isn't exactly the metric we should be comparing anything to. This is exactly why Greed feels like Made in the USA is a waste of time and money.

      Two years, isn't anywhere near long enough to force manufacturers to not purposely design and manufacture utter crap.

  • by Dan East ( 318230 ) on Wednesday January 27, 2021 @02:00PM (#60997478) Journal

    The analog drift is only one problem (and that one is fixed relatively easily). The real problem, which I've seen happen to multiple controllers, is the microswitch for the shoulder button breaks right off the circuit board. I've attempted to fix a couple, but that is only possible if you're lucky enough that the PCB traces remained on the board. In my case they broke off with the button.

    It's a truly terrible design, because there is no mechanical stop or protection for the switch. The surface-mount PCB connection is all that holds that pressure, and that's why they break often.

    • Surely someone could design a plastic part that you could 3D-print and insert in the controller to help hold that small PCB in place.

Top Ten Things Overheard At The ANSI C Draft Committee Meetings: (5) All right, who's the wiseguy who stuck this trigraph stuff in here?

Working...